Until a few years ago, the beauty industry was going in the right direction as far as ethics were concerned. Animal testing was being banned in more and more countries and some harmful ingredients were disappearing from labels, such as the big paraben scare.

The situation in Europe was certainly very good: the EU banned animal testing completely in 1993 . In 2009, it became illegal to test ingredients for cosmetic products. In March 2013, it became illegal not only to perform animal testing but to sell products that have been tested on animals anywhere in the world after this date. Many brands proudly wore the cruelty-free badge of honour on their labels.

In the United Sates, the situation was different, but improving. Animal testing for cosmetics was not banned but cruelty-free was becoming a symptom of quality. High end brands became cruelty-free and more respectful of the environment. Peta became more popular and thanks to endorsement by celebrities their information campaigns reached more people.

Then came the emerging Chinese market and things went South, or rather East. In China (and some other non-European, non-American countries), it is illegal to sell cosmetics that have not been tested on animals. A few brands that were truly committed were unmoved but others, the ones that had jumped on the ethical bandwagon for publicity, fell to temptation pretty quickly. They gave up their cruelty-free status in order to make big money in China. They were not particularly proud of their greed, so the labels and policies became confused. They were saying things like “Never tested on animals” and then in small letters: “Unless in territories where animal testing is required by law”.

Since then my bathroom shelf has lost many of its long-term residents. Some partings were painful. I rationed the last drops, knowing I would not buy another bottle when the current one would release the last of its goodness.

Some good came of this bathroom mini-tragedy: I started researching ingredients and policies more seriously and learnt a lot about the industry. I found some new residents for my cabinet and shelves, although these days they tend to be more fleeting. I was so hurt by the betrayal of some of my faithful products that I now find it more difficult to commit!  How long can my new favourites resist the lure of the powerfully rich yet cruel countries? How long can I rely on them before they fall victim of their own greed, selling off to uncaring markets of being bought by big corporations that will compromise their ethics?

Well, the solution is to enjoy them while I can, checking on their status from time to time and finding a replacement should they fall. There are many good cosmetic companies, especially coming from the United Sates. A movement is emerging of environmentally conscious, organic, natural, cruelty-free skincare brands, being helped out of their niche by the more global internet distribution.

Thanks to these I can get up in the morning looking forward to my routine, knowing that no animals were harmed in the making of the serums and creams.